Celebrating new year the Balinese way

By Sandeep Chakravorty

Today, it is almost unthinkable that a busy international airport shuts down completely for an entire day. It is not a one-time exception; it happens year after year. Not only is the Ngurah Rai International Airport in Bali closed to all flights, but all transportation on the island comes to a grinding halt. People remain indoors, and no lights can be lit at night. A pervasive silence envelopes the otherwise bustling island. It is not a time of mourning; it is a festival: Balinese New Year, Nyepi, the day of contemplative silence.

This year, Nyepi is being observed from March 19-20 as per the Hindu Saka calendar. On Nyepi, people reflect on the past year in silence and start the New Year with positive intentions. Nyepi is strictly observed, and local community security personnel, known as Pecalang, are deployed to enforce the rules. Tourists are expected to remain within their hotels; outside movement is restricted.

A majority of the Balinese are Hindu. While there is a great deal of commonality in religious beliefs between the Balinese and Hindus of the Indian subcontinent, differences abound and manifest distinctly in the observance of festivals. Whereas in India the major Hindu festivals are Holi, Diwali, Durga Puja, Ganesh Chaturthi, or Makar Sankranti, in Bali, these festivals do not resonate. Instead, the Balinese have their own festivals, Nyepi being the most prominent.

Nyepi is celebrated in three stages. The first, Melasti, is held a few days before Nyepi. It is a purification ritual meant to cleanse both the inner and exterior universe of bad karm and sins. There are colourful processions to beaches or sacred water sources to collect the water of life, which is used to cleanse sacred objects. The second ceremony is Bhuta Yajna and the Ogoh-ogoh parade, a day before Nyepi. Ogoh-ogoh is derived from the Balinese word ogah-ogah, meaning something that is shaken. In the parade, large, demonic effigies made of cloth and bamboo are constantly shaken, symbolising the driving out of negative energy. They are later burnt in the village cemetery. It is intended to create a balance among the Supreme, mankind, and nature and to appease Batara Kala, God of underworld and destruction.

The third significant ceremony is Nyepi, a day reserved for self-reflection. The term ‘Nyepi’ derives from the Balinese ‘sepi’, which signifies being quiet or still. Anything that might interfere with the singular purpose is strictly prohibited. The islanders spend the whole day praying, fasting, and meditating to strengthen their relationship with the Divine, whom they call Hyang Widi Wasa. Nyepi is based on Catur Brata, the four precepts. The first, Amati Geni, prohibits fire and light, including electricity. Even cooking is shunned. The second, Amati Karya, bars all physical activity except those dedicated to spiritual cleansing and renewal. The third, Amati Lelunganan, prohibits any movement or travelling. The fourth, Amati Lelanguan, requires fasting and allows no merrymaking. Balinese believe that silence in all forms heals, cleans, and prepares them for life.

The day after Nyepi, known as Ngembak Geni, is a complete contrast to the previous day. Families and friends gather and socialise, perform religious rituals together and become active within the community. On Nyepi, i contemplate what it would be like if we celebrated New Year the Balinese way.
The writer is Indian Ambassador to Indonesia

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